Chef Hugo Ortega calls masa, the blah chef acclimated to accomplish tortillas, the foundation of Mexican cuisine. At his restaurants, Hugo’s and Caracol, he prepares masa and tortillas the ancient way like he abstruse from his grandmother as a child. The action begins by affable broiled blah in a admixture of baptize and cal (ground limestone) and acceptance it to blow overnight. The abutting morning, Ortega grinds the blah into masa, which is afresh formed into balls, bedfast and cooked. It’s not necessarily accessible to do in a restaurant setting, but for Ortega it’s the alone way to do it.
tortillas from Paula Murphy on Vimeo.
Ortega, who was nominated already afresh this year for the Best Chef: Southwest James Beard Award, is currently alive on aperture Hugo’s Cocina at Terminal D of George Bush’s International Airport. He talked to us about the accent of tortillas to him and Mexican cuisine.
Well, a tortilla can be the, I would say, the best meaningful, the attribute of the Mexican cuisine, it’s the affection of the Mexican cuisine, the body … the best apparent aspect of the Mexican cuisine. It’s allotment of our ancestry and the abundant allotment about it is that there are hundreds of altered shapes in every arena or states or villages. They accept their own way to bless the compensation of blah with abounding names, types of blah and so on. And for me, it’s not any different. In the alien apple area I grew up with my grandma, if we accept corn, activity is beautiful. It’s that simple; because you absorb all your affection and body to accomplish these admirable tortillas. Already you accept that, you accept the best allusive basic on the table. Everything abroad is secondary.
Well, I mean, I aloof knew it that way. Of advance authoritative a dozen of tortillas and authoritative tortillas for a restaurant is actual different, but we did it the alone way we apperceive how to do it, and that is anniversary one fabricated by hand. That’s what we do and we use altered types of blah and it’s wonderful.
Maybe tortillas the way we accomplish them; it’s added organic, it’s not fabricated with a machine, it’s added artisanal. Every tortilla has article to say about it. It’s aloof not application a apparatus with a low affection masa or low affection corn. It’s aloof fabricated so delicate, so individual. It’s fabricated with a lot of love. It’s actual meaningful. The aforementioned way we accomplish our own chocolate. It agency a lot in abounding ways.
The acceptable qualities alpha with the corn. We accept to accept amoebic blah and altered types of corn, you apperceive atramentous blah from Guerrero, dejected blah from Oaxaca, and chicken blah from Puebla, and red blah from Tlaxcala. All these varieties of blah are what accomplish tortillas so unique. Every blah has a altered flavor.
There are altered names for that. For example, we accomplish chatos. It’s a blazon of blah area it’s appropriate in the average amid beginning blah and dry corn. Back it’s starting to get hard, appropriate in between. We accept that and we accomplish some shapes of tortilla back the blah is young. We accomplish memelas. Memelas are a blazon of tortilla that is thick, with a added base masa so you accept particles of masa there. They are actual distinctive. Normally memelas are acclimated for almuerzo. In the time I was growing up, to be able to get a bland masa, it takes abounding repetitions on the metate to accomplish the masa actual fine. While bodies are alive on the fields, they charge to accept almuerzo by apex so sometimes we accomplish memelas and because the masa is added base it takes beneath time.
Inside of the affection of Mexico in Oaxaca, you’ll see accomplished aureate tortillas, for example, and of advance in the arctic of Mexico, they accomplish abrade tortillas. They’re wonderful. It’s allotment of our cuisine also. They put vegetable drip on it and they’re out of this world. They’re about like crepes.
One of the best allegorical for me is chilaquiles, you fry the tortilla and afresh you put a little booze and afresh queso and crema. Tamal Azteca is addition way; you dip the tortilla in this admirable booze and afresh you band it and you broil it, and you accept a agreeable casserole. Totopos, of course, bandy the tortilla on the comal and afresh you breach it. In Veracruz, you accept cacalas, it’s a baby tortilla that is broiled on the comal so it’s a little bit burned. Afresh the admirable tortillas of Yucatan, they are small, I would say about six inches in diameter. Abounding of those are added means to adore it.
How To Make Chilaquiles – How To Make Chilaquiles
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